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BENGEL ART DECO SCHMUK. SCHMUK UND INDUSTRIE-DENKMAL, IDAR-OBERSTEIN / BENGEL ART DECO JEWELLERY. JEWELLERY AND INDUSTRIAL MONUMENT, IDAR-OBERSTEIN,
, Stuttgart, Arnoldsche, 2007, Bound, illustrated cardboard and dustjacket, frontispice in colour, 235 x 305mm., 216pp., beautiful and profound colour illustration GERMAN / ENGLISH TEXT. ISBN 9783897901797.
Art Deco Jewelry, Jakob Bengel, Idar-Oberstein (2nd ed.) in 2002. Until then entirely unknown, the costume-jewellery maker Jakob Bengel was thus introduced to the annals of jewellery history. The discovery of this Art Deco collection, that is unique in 1930s European jewellery, focused public attention on the business (est. 1873). Comprising a factory, with a villa for the proprietor and housing for the workforce, it had been preserved in its building, replete with machinery and tools as a relic of 1870s boom era costume jewellery. Turned into a cultural monument through the establishment of a foundation in 2001, today it makes 130 years of costume jewellery history come alive and is being successfully transformed into a centre for contemporary art jewellery. Rotating exhibitions, artists-in-residence and studios for young artists in jewellery link tradition and future at a unique place. This new publication showcases 100 hitherto unknown pieces of jewellery from the historic Art Deco collection owned by the Jakob Bengel company. The authors, however, approach both the past and the future of this unique industrial monument and the Art Deco jewellery made there. New book, text in German and English.
ZEITGEIST. 100 JAHRE MODESCHMUCK AUS IDAR-OBERSTEIN. A CENTURY OF IDAR-OBERSTEIN COSTUME JEWELLERY,
Stuttgart, Arnoldsche, 2009 Bound, illustrated cardboard and dito dustjacket, 230 x 295mm., 192pp., beautiful and profound illustration in colour and b/w. ISBN 9783897903142.
From the latter half of the nineteenth century, Idar-Oberstein developed into an important centre of costume jewellery production. Numerous factories, large and small, produced costume jewellery for the world into the 1980s although today this trade has virtually lost its former significance. During that long time span, Idar-Oberstein was one of the four major German jewellery centres along with Pforzheim, Schwabisch Gmund and Hanau. Idar-Oberstein costume jewellery reflects each of the prevailing fashions in turn: Historicism, Jugendstil/Art Nouveau, Art Deco... to 1960s and 1970s Informel and Zero. Innovative handling of simple (inexpensive) materials soon led to an aesthetic that stood on its own merits, independently of -real- jewellery. Here the Bengel company - with its sophisticated Art Deco jewellery - exemplifies innovative models and business policy. The author was able to study many early documents and photographs in Idar-Oberstein archives as well as pieces of jewellery that, taken together, are highly instructive on the history of costume jewellery. A vivid image of twelve jewellery manufacturers is evoked; proprietors and employees, production conditions, models policy, pieces of jewellery in each period style and worldwide marketing and distribution. Costume jewellery from Idar-Oberstein was not usually marked (stamped) because it was sold through wholesalers; this is what makes attribution to specific makers quite difficult today. The present publication time-travels through a century of creative jewellery production in Idar-Oberstein, which has hitherto remained largely unexplored so that exciting discoveries are still to be made. New book.
